Why Is Fashion Overlooking This Powerful Greenhouse Gas?

A New Focus on Methane in the Fashion Industry

The fashion industry may be missing a critical opportunity to combat climate change by focusing primarily on carbon dioxide emissions while neglecting methane, according to a recent report. Although methane is less abundant than carbon dioxide in the atmosphere, it has a much stronger heat-trapping effect over a shorter period of time. This makes it a powerful but temporary contributor to global warming, which could be harnessed as an "emergency brake" for climate action.

Emma Hakansson, founder of Collective Fashion Justice and author of the report, emphasizes that reducing methane emissions now could lead to a quicker drop in global temperatures compared to efforts targeting carbon dioxide, which has a longer-lasting impact. While both gases are important, she argues that the fashion industry must shift its focus to address methane more urgently given the current stage of the climate crisis.

Understanding Methane and Carbon Dioxide

Carbon dioxide is primarily emitted from burning fossil fuels like coal, oil, and gas. Methane, on the other hand, comes from various sources including oil and gas operations, livestock, wetlands, and landfills. Despite being less prevalent, methane is significantly more potent in trapping heat over a 20-year period—over 80 times more effective than carbon dioxide.

The United Nations Environment Programme highlights that achieving the goals set by the Paris Agreement requires a significant reduction in methane emissions. Specifically, a 30-60% decrease below 2020 levels by 2030 is necessary. However, the fashion industry is not prioritizing methane mitigation, instead focusing on long-term carbon reduction targets.

Methane Emissions in the Fashion Industry

According to the report, the fashion industry is responsible for approximately 8.3 million metric tons of methane emissions annually. This figure is nearly four times that of France's annual emissions. The majority of these emissions come from animal-derived materials such as leather, wool, and cashmere, with leather alone accounting for 54.1% of the industry’s methane footprint.

While synthetic materials like polyester and nylon also contribute to methane emissions, their impact is relatively smaller compared to animal-derived materials. However, replacing these materials with petrochemical alternatives is not a complete solution either. The increasing use of virgin polyester has led to a 7.5% emissions spike in 2023, highlighting the need for alternative approaches.

Sustainable Alternatives and Innovations

Hakansson suggests that the industry should explore recycled animal-derived materials and invest in next-generation, plastic-free, and animal-free materials. Innovations such as mycelium-based leather, bacterial cellulose, and protein leather from grain waste offer promising alternatives with significantly lower carbon footprints.

Recycled wool and leather are also viable options that can help reduce emissions in the short term. Brands like Ganni have successfully phased out virgin leather in favor of recycled alternatives, demonstrating that sustainable practices can be implemented without compromising quality or style.

Energy Use and Supply Chain Impacts

Beyond material sourcing, energy use in the production process contributes significantly to methane emissions. Fossil fuel energy sources used for dyeing and processing raw materials release large amounts of methane into the atmosphere. Transitioning to renewable energy sources is a key recommendation in the report, as it can help mitigate these emissions effectively.

Beyond Traditional Framing

Hakansson stresses that the conversation around sustainability should not be reduced to a simple choice between animal-derived and synthetic materials. Instead, the industry should look beyond these options and embrace innovative solutions that align with ethical and environmental principles.

She also critiques the oversimplified narratives surrounding methane emissions, such as the focus on cow farts. While methane from livestock is a concern, it is equally important to address methane from fossil fuel sources. Both types of methane behave similarly in the atmosphere and require comprehensive strategies for mitigation.

Future Steps and Collaborative Efforts

Collective Fashion Justice plans to expand its efforts by developing a methane reduction program that helps brands identify and address methane hotspots in their supply chains. The organization advocates for collaborative action similar to initiatives addressing plastic pollution or microfiber leakage, emphasizing the urgency of methane reduction with only a few years left until 2030.

By addressing methane emissions, the fashion industry can take meaningful steps toward reducing global temperatures and mitigating the impacts of climate change on workers and supply chains. This proactive approach not only benefits the environment but also ensures a more resilient and sustainable future for the industry.